Cues are built to withstand the normal straight line impact occurring in the game. However, wood cues, as they are mostly made of one, may not hold up well with side impact.

Being dropped on the floor or persistently leaning the cue against a wall result in side impact pressures that may seem insignificant, with no visible damage on a cue’s finish.

But repeated side pressure can cause internal fractures to the wood that will later show as a crack or warpage. Not only can this be aesthetically unsightly, but in severe cases, the warpage can cause the cue stick to lose its straight line shape that it becomes difficult to use in a pool game.

(Some good players have been known to stick with their warped cues and still win games.)

Bear in mind that the straightness of a cue is crucial in hitting the ball in the direction your want and in the proper consistency. And two-piece cues are often more vulnerable to warpage than one-piece cues.

Slight warping may not adversely affect your play. Professionals value familiarity with their cues to a point that over time, slight warpage of their favorite but aging cues really don’t matter.

But a severe warpage is something else. It is therefore important to keep the cue vertically straight when not in use.

There are cue stands available that hold the cue in such positions when being stored.

This is one storage accessory that is essential if you are a serious pool aficionado.

But what if the cue wood starts to show signs of warping and bent, can it be reversed? Is there anything a player can do to restore the cue?

Here’s some notes to consider.

(1) On a two-piece cues, the easiest way is to replace the offending part with the bent or warpage. These are mostly the bottom handle section that can easily find a replacement.

(2) Otherwise, you can suspend the cue with a string in an upright position with the heaviest bottom part hanging. Leaving it in that position can often restore the cue’s straight shape.

(3) Lean the bent cue against a wall and rotate until the bump juts out of the wall. With your palm pressed against the bump, you can then carefully press on the cue a few inches in the direction opposite the bump. Hold it there for sometime and the cue often gets back to shape. It’s possible you can snap the cue in two if you bend it far enough. Some say you lose nothing, after all, the entire warped cue is useless anyway. But still, try to do this with some caution.

(4) There are some newly patented lathe-like devices that allow storing the cue on a forced position that can restore the cue’s straightness over time. They are quite expensive but if you really have “cue loyalty”, you might go for the extra mile.

But the best thing really is to have a professional cue repair shop do the job for you. It may incur some expense, but the simplicity of “drop it and take it later” means you can concentrate more on the game.

Why? They reduce friction and can make your stroke more consistently carried out. These specialized 3-fingered gloves make the pool cue shaft slide more smoothly and accurately in your bridge hands than if there were no gloves worn. Hence, you have the promise of reduced friction. It is this reduction in friction that allows your stroke to have better consistency and accuracy.

And just like any sporting accessory, billiard gloves can be personalized to a player’s taste and budget. There are left-handed and right-handed gloves. They come in different materials with each brand promising better control and smoother action over the others. And, of course, they come in different prices. There are pool gloves that retail for as low as $5 a pair. And good ones are at a reasonable $10 to $15 a pair. Among the brands that come to mind include Sir Joseph, Minnesota billiard gloves among others.

You’d recognize a pool glove quite easily. It looks like an ordinary glove but it covers only 3 fingers: the thumb, index and middle fingers. It is made of a fabric material with silky frictionless qualities. The glove usually comes with leather or leatherette patch at the palm that reinforces your grip over the table cloth.

Most pool gloves are elastic enough to be a one-size-fits-all variety while the more expensive ones are reversible to fit both left and right handed players. Velcro straps are often used to hold the glove firmly on your wrist for greater stability.

Design and materials used for pool gloves do vary among brands. The more commonly used materials are Spandex and Lycra for strong snug grip while allowing excellent traction for the cue stick. Gloves of this material won’t be a one-size-fits-all type but comes in various sizes from extra small to extra large.

With time, a billiard player can develop a preference for one glove material or brand over the rest. There are no hard and fast rules on which pool glove is the best in terms of material or design. Price is indicative only of durability and built quality.

But as in most things where the personal subjective preference takes precedence, a pool player will have his preference on pool gloves regardless of price point. Some professional players don’t even use one, preferring instead to have a more intimate feel of the cue stick and the table than any promise of better performance a pool glove makes. They obviously prefer to rely on their skill than having a friend assist them on the pool table.

One of the things you do to restore an aging cue after replacing the tip is to also replace the ferrule. But first consider that while it may be relatively easy for a homeowner to replace a cue tip, replacing ferrules is another matter.

Ferrules are at the end of the cue shaft before the tip. They are there to absorb the impact of the tip hitting the balls that would otherwise stress the wood of the cue stick. They are often made of ivory, metal, carbon fiber or resin-based materials that offer great resiliency in absorbing the impact of hitting a hard surface at nearly 20 mph or more. Brass is also used as in snooker cues.

The ferrule would have to be in such a bad shape to have to be replaced. Most frequently used cues often develop discoloration on the ferrule due to improper use of chalks. It will take some thorough and proper cleaning to restore it to near-pristine condition.

The ferrule and the tip would be of higher concern in break cues than for normal playing cues. The ferrule in break cues absorb the most energy and are vulnerable to the most wear or damage. But it is worth noting that break cues are often specially equipped with fiber and resin-based ferrules that are almost indestructible.

So if you have to replace it for whatever reason, it is recommended that the same type of ferrule be used or the one that came as a spare part when you first bought the cue. Using anything else could upset the overall balance of the cue stick and will render it less impact absorbent or change the “hit” of the cue.

But if you have to use a new ferrule that is different from what the cue came with, there are some things to bear in mind.

First be very careful, for inexperienced players, sending your cue to a professional cue repair is strongly advised. You could practice on older cues if you have one.

Second, some cue sticks are made with a specific ferrule material. You can use a ferrule of any material but you have to adjust to its new “feel” than the original.

Third, the diameter of the ferrule must match that of the cue shaft. Different ferrules come in different diameters. So make sure they match each other. Likewise, the tenon diameters or center holes in the cue shaft may differ with the new ferrule.

There are other tips on the net on how to get the ferrule out of the cue stick you can browse on them for a more detailed instruction. You will also consider the type of glue to use that will match the type of ferrule material. For first timers, do read all you can about it. And try it out first on old cue sticks. As they say practice makes perfect.

For starters, do you have enough space in your home for one? Bear in mind that apart from the pool table dimension, you must allow enough space on all sides for the player to maneuver his shot. At least about 5 feet of space is needed on each side of the pool table.

A more reasonable estimate would be to assume that the ball is right smack on the billiard rails and you have a cue that is 57 inches. You would need at least another foot to maneuver that cue to hit the ball on the rail edge or else you’d be hitting the wall behind you.

Here’s what to consider in choosing the right size of the pool table to fit your room.

If the room is palatial, size should be no object. Otherwise, you can be guided by the fact that there are 7feet, 8feet and 9feet pool tables (measured at their longest side). So just do a little math. But remember that these sizes only indicate the usable or playable area. They don’t consider the rail width on each side which varies between designs and makers. So if the brand you are considering has 6” rails, that effectively add another foot to a 7feet pool table.

Solid or veneer finish.

Pool tables are made of hardwood. Those made of solid hardwood are heavier and more expensive. They can sport intricate carvings around and thus add to the price tag.

On the other hand, veneered pool tables uses a thin exterior layer of real or synthetic hardwood glued to a wood base, similar to most furniture construction out there. They take on the look of solid wood but without the high price tag.
Slate support.

Well-built pool tables have support beams running the entire length of the table and locked with cross beam members to support and stabilize the slate as well as the cabinet. The cheaper pool tables often have beams that are cosmetic that provides no support whatsoever.

Construction and Craftsmanship.

You definitely would need to know how a pool table is constructed to be able to discern what to look for. You may have to stoop and crawl under the table. Are there cross beams? Is the slate supported adequately? Expensive pool tables use slate backed with 3/4″ engineered wood. It provides better slate protection and sound absorption.

Is the felt cloth just stapled and glued together, or is it glued and screwed for a firmer hold? Does the table have minimal structural support? Just like any wood furniture, pool tables that last are built to withstand the stress of play over the years.

On some modern pool tables, the use of metal part in the rail corner is common. Even on the legs and cabinet. Hard plastic used in the pockets can crack over time. Find one that use soft rubberized plastic instead.

Rails and cushions

The rails often define the look of the pool table. Hard Oak or Maple rails are preferred as they limit the side vibrations. Rails using softer wood may not be so good in damping that.

The current technology used in the cushion has become an industry standard of sorts. Called K66, the cushion should have canvass backing as it makes the rubber adhere the cushion to the wood rail more durably and accurately.

Installation

All new billiard tables come in parts and must be assembled where they will be installed. See if the price tag comes with the service. Otherwise, get the services of a professional installer. Dealers would normally do that once you purchase a table from them.

Warranty or guarantee

Pool tables are often built to last a lifetime or two. It’s therefore common to see them offered with some extended lifetime warranties.

The main element that brings dirt to your pool table is the powder and chalk. Apparently, you cannot keep these things away from your pool table as it is often use by the player since these accessories are important in playing good pool by providing slip control. One way of reducing the amount of falling chalks and powder to your pool table is to avoid chalking the cues above the table.

I suggest that you use a pool table brush as it is designed especially for cleaning the pool table’s felt. It has long bristles at both ends so that you can brush off the filth on the pool table’s railings. First, brush off the bumper railings of your pool table after every game. Make sure to brush it well with short quick strokes.

Brush the center of the pool table in an outward motion towards the pocket to maintain the cleanliness of the entire playing surface. Next, start brushing at one side of the table going to the opposite corner and get under the railings. Work all the way down until you clean the entire pool table.

Get a hand vacuum cleaner and vacuum out the dirt from the pool table’s pocket. Move the tiny vacuum attachment on the edge of the bumper railings then dash to the playing surface to get rid of any entrenched dirt from your pool table’s felt.

Apply your favorite furniture polish on the outside surfaces of your pool table. Also, don’t forget to apply polish on your pool table’s leg and levelers. Do this on a regular basis.

Always cover your pool table when you’re not using it. This will help a lot in maintaining the cleanliness of your pool table, this can also cut off exposure to dirt by as much as 50%. There several kinds of covers that you could choose from, pick the one the suits your taste and style .If you are really serious in keeping your Billiard table in tip top shape, do not let anyone place any food or drinks on your table’s surface to keep it clean and dry.

How would you like to play in a billiard table with the ball running on one side? Here is some suggestion on what to do.

You have two choices in leveling the table, first do it with your friends, or second, run and have some professionals do the job for you.

Leveling a billiard table actually depends on the type of table. There are some tables that have plates which can be screwed in and out for adjustments.

This will allow you to change the table level by just simply twisting the plate. There are also some tables having legs that can be quickly adjusted by just sliding a tiny shimming material usually placed under the leg.

Now, if you do have enough people to assist you in this task, leveling a pool table can be an easy job. Thus, I would suggest that before you get some assistance from the pros and pay them considerable amount for the service try to do it yourself first.

Carpenters Level Test

Put a carpenter’s level at all table edges to find out which leg you need to lift up. Ask some friends to lift the side that you need to fix then insert your shimming material and get the right level adjustment.

Roll Test

Check and recheck your level until you get your table balance again. Done? Nah! Not yet. Here’s the real test. Roll the cue ball in any part of the table and observe closely if it rolls accurately without taking any sides. Your final adjustment will depend on the result of the roll test.

Marble Test

If you’re still not satisfied and want to have a more accurate way to check the level of your pool table, place a piece of glass at the center of your pool table. Now, put a marble at the center and observe it carefully. If the marble stays at the same position it means your table is level but if it rolls, take note of its direction as it would tell you which part of the table that needs to be lifted. Also, the speed of the rolling marble will tell you how high you should lift the table.

Take note that you need to do this test at all ends of the table. It would be better if you will perform this test few inches away from each pocket. Another thing that you ought to know is that not all slate slabs are of same level. Thus, if you are having problems in leveling your pool table because of inaccurate slate slabs, then it’s time to call on the professionals to refurbish your pool table.

The most usual damage to the pool table that comes out after years of service is the rips of different sizes found in the surface cloth or felt cloth of your pool table. Thus, what you need to do is to re-felt the pool table to restore it like new.

Well this task looks quite simple. But remember, you cannot just patch a specific part that has cuts, as it would create an uneven surface. Pretty sure you don’t like that, so instead of patching several slashes on your pool table I would suggest that you really have to re cover the entire pool table.

Follow these steps to effectively recover your pool table. This instruction is for pool tables with wood backing and has stapled felt configuration.

First, get the exact measurement of your pool table to know the size of the felt to purchase. You may also consider the color that you want for your new pool table cover. Most felt cover can be purchased from craft shops and online.

Second, do away with the rails that surround the rim of the table. You can remove these rails by taking off the bolts placed underneath the table but remember to keep the rails in their proper position so that you will not have any problems in joining them again later.

Third, remove the staples tacked on the ends of the felt using a staple remover so that you can easily remove the old felt cover.

Fourth, spread the new felt on the pool table and try to double check for some defects on the new felt if there is any. Cut the felt according to the size of your pool table and remember to allocate at least 12 inches extra felt on four sides of the table purposely to recover the rails.

Fifth, carefully cover your pool table with your new felt. Start it by tacking your felt at the center edge of the table then work all the way to the edges, tacking every 2 to 4 inches. Make sure that you pull the felt firmly before tacking it under the edges.

Sixth, make three slits at the side pocket. Start wrapping the felt and staple it under the edges then cut down the extra felt. The pocket liners can then be re attached

Finally, make a final check on the over all smoothness of the felt, this will greatly affect the game since the ball will wander if the felt cover are snag at some point.

Now reattach the railings in the same way as you took it apart, make sure you tighten the bolt or screw to make a firm, vibration free side railing.

Unlike standard billiard tables, bumper pool table contains only two pockets with 12 bumpers fixed on the table. These bumpers are arranged accordingly, wherein four bumpers are placed next to every pocket positioned in the opposite ends of the table. The other eight bumpers are set on the middle part of the bumper pool table. Basically, the bumpers work as a defense mechanism on the part of the key player to hamper the opponent from banking a ball on the pocket. Here’s some easy to follow guide to playing bumper pool.

First, you have to position the spotted ball in front of the scoring holes or the pockets. Next is to line up the balls to match the color balls from the color of the scoring holes at the opposite ends.

Second, position two balls on whichever flank of the bumpers close to the back rail of the table where you placed your marked ball.

Third, strike the spotted cue ball out of the rail going right. The player that reaches close to his pocket should play again. If both spotted cue balls go to the right pocket, hit the second ball in the same way.

Fourth, shoot your spotted cue ball towards your pocket before you would play another ball. If you fail to shoot your marked ball and you play another ball, your opponent can automatically place two balls in his pocket.

Fifth, vary your shots throughout the game.

Sixth, steal another shot after you make a successful blast into your chosen pocket.

Seventh, win by shooting all five balls in your chosen pocket before your opponent.

Lastly, let me give you some tips and warnings. Like any other games, frequent practice can drastically improve your performance and skills. Moreover, learn about the rules of the game by heart. Remember that you cannot set off the ball you hit to leap other balls or bumpers. Your opponent would take the pleasure of placing two balls on his pocket with no sweat.

Another thing to consider is to not shoot any of the opponent’s balls as your opponent will then again be given the chance to automatically place two balls on his pocket. You sure don’t like that to happen so be extra careful.

Like any other form of sports, billiards is definitely one which takes a lot of practice before you can truly master it. This includes learning different tricks that will enhance your billiards skills. One of these pool tricks is the “four bagger” which can be learned easily but takes time to perfect. This trick involves four balls hit by the cue stick in just one stroke leading the balls into different pockets of four. This can be done like this:

Clean the table from the other balls and leave the first four balls with the cue ball. Line these balls on the surface near the pocket on the left side with you posting at the end of the table. Make it certain that ball one is placed at the pocket’s edge. While the two, three and four balls are placed extending straight to the right.

Please take note that the balls should be arranged in a straight line and should be touching each other. This is important because it will affect the whole trick. Just a slight misalignment of the balls and placing it without touching each other will make it hard for the whole shot to get to work.

Next is to position the cue ball away from the aligned balls at about one foot aligning it between the two and three balls. It can also be placed a little farther from the balls depending on your choice. However, it is ideal to take the shot closer to the balls because it is generally easier that way.

Once finished with the positioning of the balls, get ready to hit the cue ball. Make your hit hard and straight to the center of the two and three balls. With the hit, the left side pocket should have the one ball.

The two ball on the far pocket at the left corner with the three ball hitting the rail of the table’s opposite end then rolling back into the near pocket at the left. On the other hand, the four ball should drop into the right side pocket shooting straight across the table.

This may be difficult on the first attempt because the balls might not drop in. But with the right placement and execution, the balls will be going to the right direction. This will help you figure out what to improve the next time you do the shot.

It surely takes some practice in order to perfect the trick. However, even if the hit is not perfect, ball one and two will more or less go in. It’s the balls three and four that are a little difficult to master and may require a bit more practice. But once perfected, it will be worth it because it will make you feel better and will be a nice way to show off your skill.